Macintosh SE User Manual Page 17

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Classic Mac Tech Docs, v1.1: No warranties expressed or implied. Use at your own risk!
Classic Mac Tech Info ©2000 Thomas H. Lee, rev. April 17, 2002; All rights reserved Page 17 of 18
Mac. Under “About the Finder” in the Apple menu, you should see that the memory has
increased to 1MB.
For reference, the “official” signal names for the connections made are as follows:
TSM-12: CASL_b; TSM-13: CASH_b
TSG-3: A19
‘LS138-10R: CAS1L_b; ‘LS138-11R: CAS0L_b
‘LS138-12R: CAS1H_b; ‘LS138-13R: CAS0H_b
Pin 15 of each DRAM is CAS_b
Note that expansion to a maximum of 4MB is possible in principle if 32 1Mb chips are
used (in which case the original DRAM chips are effectively removed from the circuit),
and if the address decoding is modified accordingly. However, 1Mb DIPs have 18 pins and
a pinout that differs significantly from that of the 256k generation, so that particular modi-
fication is only for the truly hardcore!
7.3 Keyboard Repair
Keyboard keys have to withstand considerable abuse. Physical punishment, combined
with the occasional spilled soda, can result in flaky behavior, or just plain failure. Fixing
the individual keys themselves is actually straightforward; it’s getting the actual key
switch out that’s the hard part. Given that difficulty, it might be worth trying a quick fix
first: Some people (but not me) have had luck spraying the internal guts of the keys with
WD-40 (or similar). I always just end up with a greasy mess. Others have placed the key-
board in a dishwasher! I am not so brave, but if the keyboard otherwise seems a total loss,
I guess there’s no harm in trying one last desperate act.
If a quick fix doesn’t solve the problem, you’ll have to do a little more work. First, open up
the keyboard and remove the circuit board. Gently pull off keycaps until you have cleared
a sea of keys centered around the defective key. You may wish to start from one edge of
the keyboard and work your way to the defective key. This may require the removal of lots
of keycaps, but it minimizes the risk of damaging them. Keep track of where they go.
Note the four small slots at each corner of the plastic cover of the key switch. Insert a
small jeweler’s screwdriver into one of the slots. While prying toward the nearest edge of
the switch, use a second screwdriver to pry that edge of the switch up a bit. Do the same
operation at each of the four corners of the switch. When the switch is out of the keyboard
a decent amount, gently pull it out the rest of the way by the stem that protrudes from the
middle. Warning: There’s a little spring inside, just waiting to pop out and disappear into
thin air, so be prepared for it! It’s very easy to lose.
Now that you have the switch proper out and free to work on, examine its contacts. The
typical failure mode is that the contacts fatigue a little over time, and stop working reliably
(or at all). Bending the contacts (carefully, and with tweezers or something similar) often
solves the problem (at least for a good long time). Cleaning the contacts with a product
like Cramolin or something similar may be useful in other cases. In any event, be careful
not to touch any conductive surfaces with your fingers, however, or the switch contacts
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